Vilnius, Lithuania’s capital, is a city that takes time to get used to. At first glance, it appears to be a city of Baroque churches, cobbled streets, and grand squares, with the occasional medieval tower providing a reminder of a turbulent past. However, upon closer inspection, another side of Vilnius emerges: eccentric, youthful, and fond of eating and drinking.
The historic centre is the obvious place to start exploring. Vilnius Old Town is one of Europe’s largest surviving medieval old towns and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Baroque churches dominate the skyline, narrow lanes lead unexpectedly into courtyards, and Gediminas’ Tower sits above the city on its hill.
Discovering Lithuanian Cuisine
A visit to Alaus Biblioteka, the Beer Library, provides an education on Lithuanian beer. The bar is packed with bottles and cans, and the staff are knowledgeable about the different styles and can suggest something based on personal taste. Tastings introduce visitors to Lithuanian brewing traditions as well as the modern craft-beer revolution.
Lithuania has a strong farmhouse brewing heritage, with regional traditions surviving alongside contemporary breweries. Modern producers have taken those traditions and experimented with hops, yeast, fruit, and darker malts, resulting in a beer scene that is more interesting than the standard lager served in many European capitals.
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Every September, the PUTOJA beer festival takes place, featuring not only Lithuanian brews but also brands from around the world. The festival runs for two days in an old factory just outside town and is a great opportunity to discover what’s new in beer.
Exploring the City
Cheese is a perfect companion to beer, and at the Džiugas House, visitors can discover another side of Lithuanian gastronomy. The house produces a hard, matured cheese made from cow’s milk, and tastings are organized around different stages of ageing. The transformation of the cheese as it ages is impressive, with nutty, savoury, and slightly caramelised flavours developing.
The next morning, a guided cycling tour is an excellent way to get bearings and explore the city. The centre can be crossed quickly, leaving more time to follow the Neris and Vilnia rivers, explore greener neighbourhoods, and venture beyond the urban core. Cycling becomes particularly rewarding when heading out towards Trakai, a historic town around 28 kilometres west of Vilnius.
Trakai is famous for its spectacular island castle, built on an island in Lake Galvė. The red-brick fortress appears almost improbably picturesque, particularly when approached across the water. The area remains closely associated with Lithuania’s Karaite community, descendants of a Turkic-speaking people brought here in the late 14th century by Grand Duke Vytautas.
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Back in Vilnius, the city’s obsession with beer has gone further than drinking it. At Beer Spa Vilnius, beer becomes a bathing experience, with wooden tubs filled with warm water and ingredients associated with brewing, including hops, malt, and brewer’s yeast. After a day spent cycling through the countryside, it is surprisingly relaxing.
As the city’s food and drink scene continues to evolve, visitors can expect to find new and exciting experiences. From the Džiugas House to the Senoji Kibininė, there are plenty of opportunities to taste the best of Lithuanian cuisine. And with its compact size and bike-friendly streets, Vilnius is a city that is easy to explore, whether on foot or by bicycle, with the Neris and Vilnia rivers providing a scenic backdrop to the city.
Getting Around and Getting There
To get to Vilnius, Wizzair flies from Luton, and Ryanair flies from Stansted. The Stansted Express is the fastest way to get to the airport from central London.